the colorful bo-kaap neighborhood, which we explored in cape town on our extra day that we added.

cape town is one of the most unique cities i have visited.  located in the southeastern tip of africa, it confusingly feels like europe due to the british and dutch colonization from years past, and is often described by the rest of africa as “not the real africa.”  yet look a little deeper, and something new is bubbling up.  as the nation continues to separate itself from the all-too-recent apartheid (a post on that later), the landscape is changing.  a new generation of youth who never knew (or only vaguely remember) the blatant segregation of races now together create a sense of optimism through shared beers at hipster pubs, the growing popularity of football among the entire nation, and a feeling of creativity that permeates the city, replacing the formerly rigid afrikaaner mindset.

stunning vistas while driving along the western edge of the cape peninsula

also, the scenery is breathtaking.  table mountain surrounds the city center and provides stunning views on sunny days (though beware: table mountain is often shrouded in clouds, making breathtaking vistas impossible for days at a time), while cosmopolitan beach towns line the atlantic ocean with posh restaurants and cafes.  heading south from the city, the cape peninsula is a day’s drive and provides views only paralleled by big sur in central california (and minus the thousands of tourists).  if that’s not enough, the cape winelands are to the east of the city and boast unbelievably picturesque vineyards famous for cultivating excellent pinotage amid cape dutch architecture.

it is easy to be overwhelmed by a city such as this, and i had no idea where to start. we spent five days in cape town, and i still feel as if i did not see enough and that i missed out on some key sites.  to help future visitors, i’ve put together my ideas on must-sees, based on how many days you have on hand.

for one day in cape town:

if you get to choose which day to visit, choose saturday.  start by taking a cab to the old biscuit mill in the eastern, industrial part of town.  gradually turning from a warehouse district into a creative hub, the former biscuit mill houses the neighbourgoods market each saturday.  hundreds of vendors converge with clothes, jewelry, and food.  oh, the food.  stalls of african comfort food, sushi, paella, mediterranean salads, ostrich burgers, brai (african bbq), and more, surround rows of communal tables set with fresh flowers and burning candles.  you must go to see the new face of cape town: young, diverse, and all creating something that seems to be more brooklyn than africa or england.

the neighbourgoods market entrance in the old biscuit mill in cape town

following lunch and shopping, take a cab to the nearby convention center and hop on the double-decker tourist hop on/hop off buses.  for one day, i recommend the red route.  head to the top of the bus and listen to the guide as you speed through downtown, long street, and district 6, where black residents were forcibly removed from their homes in the 1970s and forced to live in townships outside the city (the district 6 museum is worth a stop).  if in need of a pick-me-up, stop at the mount nelson hotel (nicknamed uncle nellie) for high tea (make reservations in advance).  otherwise, continue on to table mountain.

a view of the city bowl district from the top of table mountain; looking northwest toward the atlantic ocean. you can see the cape town stadium (from the world cup!) near the northern coast.

at the base, head to the cable car lines (tip: buy your tickets in advance to bypass the 45-minute wait), and zoom to the top of the mountain, which takes hikers approximately four hours to ascend.  the views are unbelievable and the photos do not do it justice.  back on the bus, head to swanky camps bay, a beach town known for its cosmopolitan vibe, and get out for a glass of champagne or espresso from a sidewalk cafe while watching the waves.  return to the bus for drives northward along the coast past more beaches, the world cup soccer stadium, and finally to the v&a waterfront.  very touristy, but worth a stop to see locals catching a televised rugby or soccer game at the large amphitheater.

the south africa vs. scotland rugby match at the v&a waterfront in cape town. the rowdy brazil world cup game followed with a packed ampitheater.

add a second day:

hire a guide (i strongly recommend graham at wilderness touring) and head south to explore the cape point peninsula.  bring a camera to capture the winding roads hugging sharp cliffs that descend to crashing waves from the atlantic ocean.  pass quaint towns with cape dutch architecture, and head to table mountain national park for glimpses of ostriches and baboons near the cape of good hope.  eat lunch at two oceans restaurant, but don’t sit outside unless you’re willing to risk losing your dinner roll to a hungry baboon (seriously).  continue north along the eastern side of the peninsula, stopping at simon’s town to see penguins (penguins!!) as they frolic along the sand.  a total highlight.  end the day with a stroll through kirstenbosch gardens, the ethereal botanical gardens of cape town,and a true gem of the city.  complete the night with dinner at manna epicure in the gardens district.

penguin sighting at simon’s town on the eastern edge of the cape peninsula – i love them!

add a third day:

remember your guide?  bring him back for another day, and head to the winelands.  explore stellenbosch, a charming town in the middle of the winelands with a pristine downtown (think: santa barbara).  choose a few wineries to visit.  i would recommend vrede en lust for the wine enthusiasts, meerlust for the creatives (find charmaine gola and have her tell you everything you ever wanted to know about wine in south africa), webersburg for a traditional winery in cape dutch architecture, and delaire graff for a completely ridiculous display of wealth that will leave you awestruck.  people may suggest you stop in the french town of franschhoek:  skip it; too touristy.

the webersburg wine estate is a perfect example of cape dutch architecture.

add a fourth day:

continue to explore cape town.  spend some time strolling the city at leisure.  we stayed at liberty lodge in the gardens district (read my trip advisor review here), and it was a perfectly central location that was safe and allowed for walking to most city center sites.  shops and restaurants line kloof nek street, which turns into the famous long street as you head north to downtown.  stop in the vintage shops of long street, and especially at clarke’s bookshop, which specializes in cape town and south african literature.  walk through bo-kaap, the colorful muslim neighborhood with brightly painted houses set against the backdrop of table mountain; visit the bo-kaap museum to talk to residents and understand the history.  afterwards, enjoy lunch or tea at any of the hipster-esque cafes along bree street (i recommend dear me brasserie for excellent salads).  if you have the time, visit robben island to see where nelson mandela was imprisoned (you must reserve in advance).

the dear me brasserie near long street in cape town

add a fifth day:

rent a car and head to babylonstoren.  read my gush of a post here.

what to read: long walk to freedom by nelson mandela, you can’t get lost in cape town by zoe wicomb

what to watch:  searching for sugar man

when to go: summer is better weather-wise and allows for better views from table mountain.  however, winter is the best time for safaris, so you may be forced to visit capetown pre-safari in the winter.  weather is mild, but bring some layers (see my post on what to pack here).

my map of cape town!