my jaunts: barcelona

people in front of the mnac on montjüic watching la font mágica

people in front of the mnac on montjüic watching la font mágica

my best friend and i visited barcelona for a week last october. the city is full of art, color, modernista architecture, and a general joie de vivre; basically, barcelona captured my heart. i could not possibly write about the city in one post, so i’ve decided to break it out into two separate posts: this devoted to the best tourist sites and another (next week) devoted to local flavor.

during our first day, we wanted to get our bearings. i thought that meant walking a lot. kim had another idea: the double-decker tourist bus. i gawked, she won, and it turned out to be ridiculously fun. we took the green route, which drove us through the modernista sights of the city: la sagrada familia, la pedrera, casa batlló, and park güell. the modernista movement was the art movement that occurred in the early 20th century that mirrors the art nouveau movement of paris. the man affiliated most with this movement in barcelona is antoni gaudí, who designed all of the sights listed above. his style is completely unique, and the joy and inspiration in his work is evident.  i had never seen anything like it.

the torre agbar in barcelona

the torre agbar in barcelona

a rickshaw ride down the waterfront of the beach (in an area known as la barceloneta) was one of our favorites, as it allowed us to see huge lengths of the waterfront in a short amount of time. we passed public art, modern architecture, seafood restaurants, underground clubs accessible via elevators on the boardwalk (spain knows how to have a good time), and the olympic village from the 1992 summer olympics. additionally, the city allows drinking on the beach, so we enjoyed sipping sangrías while michael, our rickshaw pedaler from liverpool, tried to coax some more dinero out of us.

we ended one friday night in montjüic, a hill overlooking the city. a giant fountain dubbed la font màgica stands at the base of the national museum of catalunian art (mnac) and, at certain times throughout the week, gives a series of 30 minute shows that start with classical music, move towards katy perry, and end with freddie mercury singing barcelona.

the sheer amount of people there was unreal. tourists and locals alike crowded the area surrounding the fountain, stood on columns for better views, danced in groups to the music, and cheered with the catalan anthem. we drank cava from the stall in front of the mnac at the top of the stairs, and men walked around selling individual cans of beer (didn’t seem strange at the time).  i’m not going to lie: when kim suggested this, i was not at all interested. fountain shows aren’t really my thing. word of advice: just do what kim says.

who should go: art and architecture lovers
other sights of interest: the cathedral, la rambla
what to read: the wallpaper guide to barcelona,
what to wear: comfortable walking shoes, appropriate clothes for cathedrals (no short shorts or tank tops)

 

the altar of la sagrada familia, gaudí's cathedral masterpiece

the altar of la sagrada familia, gaudí’s cathedral masterpiece

view from the rickshaw of la barceloneta

view from the rickshaw of la barceloneta

gaudí's park güell in barcelona

gaudí’s park güell in barcelona

lucha libre-esque figures atop caso batlló, aka la pedrera

lucha libre-esque figures atop caso batlló, aka la pedrera

 

my favorite: bed & breakfasts

the inn at cooperstown

the inn at cooperstown in cooperstown, new york

i’d like to start a section titled “my favorites” and use it to explore my favorite things from around the world. this week: the b&b. i used to be a bit leery of bed and breakfasts. sometimes the floors creak, you can hear your neighbors, and you may be forced to talk to someone over morning coffee (not good for me). after having a few really wonderful experiences, though, i’ve done a 180 on the b&b and like to seek out the great ones. here are a few i’ve stayed at recently that were truly exceptional:

  • cass house inn, cayucos, california – this was our first stop on my husband’s and my first anniversary trip last summer. cayucos is a sleepy beach town on the central coast, and cass house is just across the street from the pier. a young couple own the inn, which is housed in the former victorian abode of the cass family (photographs of the family line the walls). the staff are amazing, and the personal touches are great (a glass of wine and a blanket to enjoy the chilly night in their gardens greeted us upon arrival). but if you do find yourself in cayucos, you must eat dinner at the cass house restaurant. the husband is the head chef, and the ever changing prix -fixe menu with wine pairings and ingredients from the garden out back is not to be missed.
  • la otra orilla, buenos aires, argentina – my best friend, kim, found this b&b in the heart of the palermo district of BA. close to shopping, restaurants, and a vibrant nightlife, we couldn’t have asked for more. the lush gardens and european decor provided for many great photo opportunities, and the breakfast in the morning was delicious and filing (not the case in all b&bs). we weren’t even disappointed when we were rained in one afternoon.
  • the inn at cooperstown, cooperstown, new york – my husband and i stayed here during our trip to see the baseball hall of fame. this b&b is walking distance from the hall of fame, as well as the cute downtown area (i recommend alex and ika restaurant – so good!). a long porch stretches across the front of this colonial house, and it was sitting in one of the many rocking chairs, sipping ice tea while enjoying the warm night, that i somehow met babe ruth’s granddaughter. in town to speak at the hall of fame, she and her husband were staying at the inn, and happily chatting with the other guests. delightful!

i’m interested in hearing your thoughts – do you have a favorite b&b you would recommend?

jaunt chats: costa rica

recently my best friend, kim, travelled with her family and her friend, nikki, to costa rica, a place hyped for its pura vida and lush landscapes. she was gracious enough to fill me in when she returned by answering a few questions and sharing some photos.

jaunt: why did your family decide to travel to costa rica?
kim: my family had planned a belated family christmas vacation in january, and wanted to go off the beaten path. we’d all had friends who’d given us rave reviews of costa rica. costa rica is easy to get to (direct flight from denver, where i live) and is much closer than hawaii, which is where my parents usually like to go in the winter. also, it’s in the same time zone and is relatively safe.

jaunt: how did you plan for your trip? any good sites or books you’d recommend?
kim: honestly, as someone who loves to plan everything in advance, it was kind of hard to arrange things prior to arrival. accommodations were recommended from a friend, but otherwise we played it by ear. i had a lonely planet tour book borrowed from a friend, but we booked most activities once we arrived.

jaunt: tell us about your favorite moments on your trip. what do you remember most?
kim: costa rica is BIG into surfing! one of my more simple pleasures was walking along the beach at the end of the day with my family, watching the many surfers catch some waves. a boy with a cooler full of coconuts walked up and asked if we’d like a pipa (coconut). i had read about this and most definitely did! he took one out, along with his machete, cropped off some of the top and made a small hole in the coconut, inserted a little bendy straw and i had a lovely little coconut drink for the rest of the walk [see photo below]. costa rica was a lot less commercial than i’d expected and buying a coconut off the beach from a local really made me happy.

jaunt: if i were to visit costa rica, what are the three things i must do or see?
kim: 1. arenal volcano- loved the hot springs at tabacon! it is one of the top hot springs spas in the world. i recommend the day spa package- spa treatments, lunch and a day pass to their beautiful rainforest hot springs. there are also canopy tours, hanging bridge tours, volcano hikes and more.
2. rainforest zipline tours- can be done in monteverde (more difficult to access- see below) or around arenal volcano (and probably a lot of other places of which i’m unaware)
3. watching the sunset from the pacific coast with a cocktail in hand. paradise. :)

jaunt: this is sounding pretty great. what was the funniest/craziest thing that happened on your trip?
kim: we took a ‘day’ trip from guanacaste peninsula to monteverde for ziplines and rainforest tours. As we were driving, i was reading to the group about the quakers who immigrated there during the korean war as a pacifist protest and have made monteverde very difficult to access by not paving any roads. well, what was supposed to be a 3.5 hour drive turned into a 5.5 hour drive after we discovered that the whole ‘no paved roads’ thing was indeed true. we were basically off-roading over mountain passes for about three hours with my dad at the helm. also, there were no mile markers or road signs for quite a while and we got lost for at least an hour. we missed our specified ‘zip line’ time, but luckily the costa ricans are pretty laid back so they let us go later.

jaunt: ha! sounds like a good time, and nice to know about the quaker pacifists. so what is the overall vibe of this trip?
kim: the overall vibe is ‘pura vida’ which is something costa ricans say to each other and everyone else as a greeting, send-off or in answer to how are you if things are good (and they always are in costa rica, apparently).

jaunt: any travel tips for others taking this trip? any must-pack items?
kim: bring sunscreen, variable footwear (hiking shoes and flip flops), dry fit clothes if you plan on doing outdoor/adventure activities, possibly a light rain jacket, hat and swimsuit. maybe a sundress for a dinner out, but that would be about the dressiest. if you’re headed to the rainforest- bring layers as it can get cool.

all photos taken and provided by kim, and are subject to the terms and conditions of this site.

how to pack a carry-on

i travel a lot for my job and for vacations, and over the years have discovered (sometimes the hard way) the best items to keep in my carry-on. here are my must-haves that keep me happy on long flights (check out my pinterest board on pouches to hold many of these items without cluttering your carry-on). do you have any ideas that i should adopt?

  • a big tote – this is always a big investment piece for me. i can use it as a work bag, a travel bag, and a quick overnight bag.
  • ipad or book/magazines – my favorite apps for flights include the kobo e-reader (which allows me to read e-books purchased from my neighborhood bookstore, skylight books), the new york times crossword puzzles, and evernote (to jot down any thoughts during the flight, or to scan through travel info i’ve clipped to my travel notebook). some flights have plugs in the seats now, so i pack my chargers, as well.
  • snacks and a bottle of water (bought once in airport) – the small complimentary glass given during short flights is almost never enough
  • headphones – for watching in-flight movies or listening to music
  • cardigan and/or large scarf – i am always cold on flights (and basically in every other situation), and these help take the chill off while still being light and easily folded into the tote post-flight
  • kleenex – there’s nothing worse than needing one and having to make row-mates get up so i can grab one
  • eye drops – i wear contacts, and my eyes always dry out during the flight, especially if i doze off for awhile
  • necessities – my checked bags have been lost multiple times (including on my honeymoon when i packed only carry-ons, and was still forced to check a bag by the airline). i’ve since learned there are certain items i must keep with me at all times: any necessary medication, a contact case and glasses, a toothbrush, and any nice jewelry with sentimental value.
  • a good wallet – aside from holding my money, this keeps my travel essentials within easy reach for quick access. i include my id, boarding pass, confirmation number, credit card, and frequent flyer info.

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my favorite products: travel journals

when i was ten, i took my first trip away from home without my mom. it was a trip to disney world with my cousins, and my mom gave me some valuable advice: write everything down. turns out, my fourth-grade self was pretty hilarious, and my cousins and i have been very entertained flipping through our old travel journals. reading through my journals is one of my very favorite things about taking trips. i have a horrible memory, and i’ve found that if i don’t write down the funny, the interesting, and the strange as it happens, i won’t remember them in even a couple of days.

i now prefer the small, brown moleskin notebooks for my travel diaries. they are small enough to slip into my pocket or clutch, have lined pages (being an accountant, i’m really not one for going outside of the lines), and i can draw on the cover if i feel any artistic inspiration (that happened once in a park in mendoza, argentina, and i wish i could tell you the outcome wasn’t regrettable).

though the moleskins are my favorite, i’ve seen a lot of super cute journals recently that make me want to branch out a little. see below for some of my favorites. are there any you recommend?

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1. pantone notebook, $12.99 2. field notes, $9.95 for a 3-pack 3. leather gamma journal from anthropologie, $24 4. secret agents i met and loved journal from archie grand, €12.45 5. moleskin volant mini ruled notebook, $5.95 for a set of two

my jaunts: marfa, texas

shortly after i started dating parker (now my husband), he mentioned wanting to travel to a small town in far west texas, marfa. i had never heared of marfa and, after looking it up on a map, realized it was pretty much in the middle of nowhere (over two hours from the nearest cities of el paso or midland/odessa). parker had read about it in texas monthly, and mentioned it was known for its modern art scene. hmmm…modern art in west texas? i was thinking more like ranchers from edna ferber’s giant (side note: the movie based on the book was filmed in marfa- it was the last movie james dean filmed before his death).

we went for three nights, and it was one of the quirkiest and coolest trips i have ever taken. we ate marfalafal at the food shark food truck (before food trucks were cool), where they gave me change in the form of a two dollar bill, a dollar piece, and a fifty cent piece (so whimsical, as my friend tara would later describe it). we strolled through the tiny downtown, with its art galleries (a warhol exhibit comes to mind), a light-filled library, and hipster bikes leaning against buildings (no locks, no crime). at night we stayed at the thunderbird hotel, a hipster haven where we rented bikes, a typewriter, and a record player.

donald judd’s chinati foundation is located in marfa, and we spent over a day touring the facilities and seeing the many exhibits spread over acres of the flat west texas land. we spoke with interns who had moved to marfa for the summer, and learned how they liked the tiny town (loved it), where they went shopping (online or in nearby alpine for the closest grocery store), and what the neighboring ranchers thought of the neon light installations (amused).

east of town, there is a strange phenomenon called the marfa lights. at a rest stop off the highway, you can park at night and look out over the flat land and see twinkling lights at the horizon. many people have speculated as to what they are, but the lights (and their origin) remain a mystery, with UFOs being the prevailing idea. somewhat spooky (ok, i was entirely freaked out), but seemingly in step with the rest of the town’s eccentric vibe. check it out.

who should go: modern art lovers, hipsters, texans
what to read: giant by edna ferber
what to watch: no country for old men and there will be blood, both partly filmed in marfa
the surrounding area: drive south to the border and head east along the rio grande through big bend national park. stop for a drink at boathouse in terlingua, a ghost town with a high hippie population and home to a texas-sized chili festival. head north from marfa for a night spent watching the stars at the university of texas’ mcdonald observatory, or swim in the natural (and freakishly clear) springs in balmorhea.

bon voyage!

bon-voyage!happy new year! ok, april may be a stretch for still wishing a happy new year, but i am so excited to start jaunt blog in 2013! jaunt is born out of my love for travel, seeing new places, finding adventure, and sharing the experiences (good and bad) with friends. the idea is simple: a mix of travel and style, along with some thoughts from my partners-in-crime thrown in for good measure.  from my favorite tapas restaurants in barcelona to my favorite cross-body bags to hold my travel essentials, i’m hoping to cover it all. thanks for reading, and happy travels!