Tag Archives: usa

reading my way around the world

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marfa book company, where i found the history of giant, which was later written into a movie filmed in marfa

marfa book company, where i found the history of giant, which was later written into a movie filmed in marfa

in case you haven’t heard, my husband is now a doctor. not the real kind of doctor, as he likes to say, but the kind that still gets some awesome initials after the name (i’d like to think that “cpa” still counts for something, but so far it’s not working in my favor). these initials (ph.d. in case you haven’t yet caught on) are from his five years spent learning everything there is about government and history. this proves to be a really useful skill when we travel and i say things like “now this country was on which side of the war?”

it's official: he's a doctor!

it’s official: he’s a doctor!

history was always my worst subject (ok, and chemistry). i could never remember the names and the battles, and the years just always blended together for me (is there really much difference between 1225 and 1290?). thankfully, travel is changing that, and making it more real to me than the pages of my former textbooks.

i have found that i really enjoy immersing myself in a travel destination through books, movies, and music. when traveling last summer to monterey, california, i read john steinbeck’s cannery row. not only did we visit cannery row and see the places on which the book was based, but we were also able to visit the steinbeck center in salinas and learn about steinbeck’s life growing up in salinas, and the true stories that inspired the book.

the pacific biological laboratories, fictionalized into western biological labs in steinbeck's cannery row (monterey, ca)

the pacific biological laboratories, fictionalized into western biological labs in steinbeck’s cannery row (monterey, ca)

i watched vicky cristina barcelona before my trip to barcelona. i read giant while traveling to marfa (still a favorite).  i picked up a copy of a moose and a lobster walk into a bar while stopped at a light house in portland, maine. and a tale of two cities made the french revolution come to life much more than that world history class i took as a freshman.  what better way to learn about the people and culture of a place than to read their stories and learn the history that defines the location?

interior of marfa book company, with tons of books on art, texas, and art in texas

interior of marfa book company, with tons of books on art, texas, and art in texas

other suggestions:
– read don quixote when in madrid and alcalá de henares (alcalá claims to be the birthplace of cervantes)
– read the age of innocence when in new york
– watch paris, je t’aime before heading to paris

what are some of your favorite location-specific reads/movies?

update: after writing this post, i was strolling through elliott bay book company in seattle (great bookstore if you are in the area), and came across an amazing resource, book lust to go. this book lists reading options (fiction and non-fiction) based on destinations. since i was about to head to barcelona, i checked the spain section, and it had the recommendation of the shadow of the wind, which takes place in 1945 barcelona, and was perfect for my trip (and long enough for the trans-atlantic flight). book lust to go is exactly what i’ve been looking for – pick up a copy!

visiting park guell in barcelona, as seen in vicky cristina barcelona

visiting park guell in barcelona, as seen in vicky cristina barcelona

map of steinbeck's travels in "travels with charley" at the steinbeck center in salinas, ca

map of steinbeck’s travels in “travels with charley” at the steinbeck center in salinas, ca

bidding adieu to los angeles

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clouds ain't gonna scare crowds - santa monica beach in the middle of june gloom

clouds ain’t gonna scare crowds – santa monica beach in the middle of june gloom

it’s official: we’re leaving los angeles. parker was offered a position at a university in dallas, and we are headed back to texas in a few short weeks. what started as “westward, whoa!” (a very unsuccessful blog we started many moons ago before life took over) is now “tally, ho!” as we head home.

it is unreal to me that we have spent the last five years in this crazy city! i remember the night we decided to move to LA and try our hand at the big city. half a decade later, and it’s one of the best decisions of my life.

blueberry/lemon and grapefruit donuts - thanks, pinterest!

blueberry/lemon and grapefruit donuts – thanks, pinterest!

this past weekend we decided to explore a few sites of the city with our friends who have made these five years so special. all were invited as we took one last jaunt (westside on saturday and eastside on sunday) to explore some new places and return to some old favorites. the westside day started out at the beach with some homemade blueberry/lemon and grapefruit donuts (see above), courtesy of pinterest (yum), and a whole lot of june gloom (if you’re not from LA, it is the creepily prevalent gloomy mist that hovers over the beach cities for the entire morning in the months of may and june).

next up was a spin around the santa monica pier, which i’ve always found a little tacky, but let’s be honest, it was really fun (although i’m not sold on the safety of the roller coaster; there were a few too many bumps along the track while i was parallel to the pier).

ambiguously safe carnival rides at the santa monica pier

ambiguously safe carnival rides at the santa monica pier

i purchased an “old LA” map from poketo last month that spotlights the vintage sights around the city. first on the list was the carousel on the pier and it did not disappoint (don’t forget to buckle your seat belt – apparently carousels are danger waiting to happen due to the high amount of injuries from children falling off).

the carousel at santa monica pier, open since 1916

the carousel at santa monica pier, open since 1916

we were ready for lunch at that point, and walked a few blocks north to the blue plate oysterette, a delightfully east-coast-ish oyster bar that i’ve been dying to try since kate spade and fathom added it to their los angeles city guide. one clam chowder, one peruvian ceviche, a glass of allagash, and a half-dozen east coast oysters later, i was sold. i’m not sure if it was the spicy fresh seafood or the crisply dressed waiters (not matching, but all in the same sky, navy, and white hues), but it made for a satisfying stop.

lunch at the blue plate oysterette on ocean boulevard

lunch at the blue plate oysterette on ocean boulevard

east coast oysters at the blue plate oysterette

east coast oysters at the blue plate oysterette

a few blocks further north, we cooled off the at the bungalow, a much-too-cool yet i-can’t-get-enough-of-it bar set in a bungalow on ocean boulevard in santa monica. beautiful twenty-somethings wander from room to room (and patio to patio) wearing bright sundresses and crisp blazers playing games of ping pong or checkers while sipping on mojitos. love? love.

the bungalow at the fairmont on ocean boulevard

the bungalow at the fairmont on ocean boulevard

once the buzz wore off, we headed east to century city for the annenberg space for photography. i have been meaning to check out this place for years, and finally had the chance – oh, and it’s free (free!). i thought we were going to see a war exhibit, but instead we were welcomed with a retrospective of helmut newton’s strong nudes. lucky us! i used to love looking at newton’s photographs in vogue (i saved his obituary from vogue after he passed away, and still have the article – also from vogue – that sofia coppola wrote about his photo of charlotte rampling), and couldn’t believe we unintentionally arrived on opening day of the exhibit. what luck. you must visit.

annenberg space for photography

annenberg space for photography

we ended the day at a westside institution, also listed in the old LA map: the apple pan. a burger bar in its simplest sense, we plopped down on the red bar stools, ordered burgers and egg salad sandwiches, cream sodas, and pieces of pie. simple, flavorful, classic, perfect. maybe the west side isn’t so bad after all.

the steak burger and famous dollop of ketchup from the apple pan

the steak burger and famous dollop of ketchup from the apple pan

the apple pan

the apple pan

do you have any westside favorites i need to check out before leaving? please let me know!

jaunt chats: charleston, south carolina

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college of charleston

college of charleston

i’ve heard such great things about the laid-back vibe of charleston, south carolina; with its beautiful and lush scenery and delicious food it has always been high on my “must visit” list, though i have yet to book a ticket. my friend, patricia, traveled there regulary, and always had the best stories about the city. i sat down with her recently to get a flavor for charleston’s southern charm.

jaunt blog: tell us a bit about your travel and how you planned for your trips.

patricia: i traveled to charleston extensively to visit my boyfriend, tom, who’s in the navy and was stationed in the area. i flew there one weekend a month for that one and a half year period. yelp was the website that i used most in planning my trips. tom and i are huge foodies, and we planned all of our trips around great restaurants. our favorites were FIG, the glass onion, kilwin’s ice cream (ohmygoshsogood), husk…the list goes on and on. we also like to watch diners, drive-ins and dives and get restaurant ideas from that show. that’s how we found the glass onion (get the cornbread, and don’t be stingy with the fresh honey).

also, I highly recommend paying the premium to stay in a hotel in the downtown area so you are walking distance from everything. we were able to find a great priceline deal for the andrew pinckney inn which we LOVED. stay there if you’re able to; it was my favorite hotel of all my trips.

patricia and tom at kilwin's in charleston

patricia and tom at kilwin’s in charleston

jb: tell us about your favorite moments on your trip. what do you remember most?

p: i have wonderful memories of walking around downtown charleston. it’s so historic and it feels that way; you feel like you’re walking through the setting of Gone With the Wind. one of my absolute favorite memories was watching 4th of july fireworks at patriot’s point. there’s a decommissioned aircraft carrier and submarine in the water at patriot’s point, and on the 4th of july, they shoot off fireworks from the deck of the aircraft carrier. we walked around the aircraft carrier, drank beer (there was a little 4th of july fair in the parking lot) and then watched the fireworks from the back of tom’s truck. the view was spectacular; probably the best view of fireworks I’ve ever had.

patriot's point in charleston

patriot’s point in charleston

jb: that sounds amazing! if i were to visit charleston outside of the fourth of july, what are some things i must do or see?

p: you MUST have the cinnamon crumb cake ice cream at kilwin’s. i know it’s a chain, so you could have it in a number of kilwin’s on the east coast, but you have to have it. a walk around downtown charleston is definitely in order, to see as much of it as you possibly can.

oh my gosh i can’t believe i almost forgot my absolute FAVORITE place in charleston: the gin joint. you will have the best cocktails of your life. it’s tucked away downtown, and they also have brunch if you’re in the mood. my favorite cocktail is the new orleans gin fizz, which i discovered at the gin joint.

oh and also! go to folly beach if you’re there in the summer, and hit up the folly beach crab shack. get an oyster shot if you’re feeling adventurous (a raw oyster in a shot glass filled with a bloody mary). their seafood buckets are soooo good.

charleston beach

charleston beach

jb: who should visit charleston?

p: i would recommend charleston to anyone who likes history, food, beaches/the ocean, a delicious cocktail, and a lively downtown scene where everything’s within walking distance.

jb: i’m totally sold; you had me at “cocktail.” what should i pack?

p: it gets very hot and humid during the summer (a great excuse for a trip to folly beach!). as a result of the humidity, there are a ton of bugs, so bug spray is a must. pack loose clothes if you’re going to be there in the summer, and warm clothes for the winter (it’s right on the water). tom and i got majorly into the help and read it together while he lived there. it’s a fantastic book and even if you’ve seen the movie, i would still recommend it.

college of charleston willows

college of charleston willows

downtown charleston

downtown charleston

the battery, the promenade in charleston

the battery, the promenade in charleston

my jaunts: seattle

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sitka and spruce in seattle

sitka and spruce in seattle

my work recently took me to seattle, a city i had never visited, for a week. i had been saving articles about seattle for a few years, and was excited to finally get a chance to explore. seattle is such a unique and arresting city that i instantly fell in love. full of lush, green spaces, warm people, excellent food, and countless book stores and coffee shops, seattle was a welcome break from the always-rushing los angeles. my husband joined me, and we took some tips from nyt’s 36 hours, and headed straight to capitol hill to visit volunteer park for views of the city from the brick tower and great food from volunteer park cafe, both of which did not disappoint.

we made a quick stroll through pike place market (where the starbucks brew got its name), but the better attractions of the area are the cute stores and restaurants surrounding the market. my favorites included beecher’s cheese, which has large windows for visitors to observe the cheese-making process first hand, and the metsker map shop, where i could have spent hours perusing through travel books, city maps, and globes.

view of seattle from volunteer park in capitol hill

view of seattle from volunteer park in capitol hill

taking another cue from 36 hours, we headed to sitka and spruce for dinner one night, which is housed in a warehouse-like building off pine street that shares space with a bakery, a meat market, a small bar, and more. we ate at s&s on monday night, which is malafacha night, which involved a long menu of ridiculously delicious tacos, which were rich in flavor and accompanied by micheladas, my new favorite drink (beer and lime juice – how did i not know of this gem earlier?!).

victorian scene in port townsend, washington

victorian scene in port townsend, washington

as much a city of water as of land (views of the sea are constant), we boarded a ferry in our rental car to explore some of the surrounding area. i had read an article in sunset magazine a few years ago that mentioned the small town of port townsend, so we headed there first. about an hour’s drive from the ferry stop on bainbridge island, we indulged in piping hot pizza from waterfront pizza as soon as we arrived (buy a slice from the window downstairs or sit upstairs in the tiny dining room with the dumbwaiter for more substantial portions). the town is adorable, dotted with victorian houses and buildings, and with a charming downtown that runs parallel to the waterfront. i enjoyed browsing through get-a-bles and what’s cookin with ice cream from elevated ice cream in hand.

after a quick coffee from pane d’amore, we headed south to gig harbor, an almost too-idyllic spot southwest of seattle that was recently named one of the best small towns in america. we browsed the stores along the water (loved bayside book company), and ordered smoked salmon and rainier beer from tides tavern as we watched the boats pull into the dock for the evening.

who should go: readers, coffee drinkers, shoppers of madewell (is it me or did the entire town appear outiffted in their recent catalog?)
what to read: nothing. save your books for the countless book stores throughout seattle (i loved elliott bay book co in pike/pine)
what to watch: sleepless in seattle and grey’s anatomy (confession: i was saddened to learn that seattle grace hospital does not actually exist; don’t judge)
what to pack: layers, an umbrella, boots

ferry to bainbridge island, en route to port townsend

ferry to bainbridge island, en route to port townsend

refreshing happy hour at tide's tavern in gig harbor

refreshing happy hour at tides tavern in gig harbor

checking out a mariners/rangers game in seattle

checking out a mariners/rangers game in seattle

my favorite: parks

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barndall art park in los feliz, los angeles

barndall art park in los feliz, los angeles; looking north toward griffith observatory

i grew up in tulsa, oklahoma, which is a city full of parks. you can’t stroll more than a few blocks before running into one, so much so that i took green spaces for granted until i moved away. parks remind me of friends and family, picnics (i’m a sucker for a good picnic – check out my picnic board on pinterest), late-night walks, shakespeare in the park and, more than anything, lots of green space. in my opinion, the best provide a place to hang out with friends, beautiful surroundings, and a little bit of the arts. here is a small sample of my favorite parks i have found throughout my travels.

1.stanley park, vancouver, canada – i visited stanley park on a beautiful day in august with my best friend. we rented bikes, and cycled around the perimeter of the grounds, looking across the vancouver harbor and the burrard inlet, passing lighthouses and totem poles, and lazy beaches on the west side. after turning in our bikes, we looped back to the theatre under the stars for a performance of singin in the rain with a glass of wine and some themed photos during intermission (see below).

central park, new york city

central park, new york city

2.central park, new york, new york – ok, this is a given. it’s expected because it’s the best. it’s classic. where else can you find an ice-skating rink in the middle of green space with sky scrapers framing the backdrop? stop by the castle or run around the reservoir, or simply enjoy the plentiful art throughout the park (my favorite is the alice in wonderland sculpture on the southeast side of the park). and when you’re finished with the outdoors, step into the metropolitan museum of art, located inside the park and worthy of its own day entirely.

3. barnsdall art park, los angeles, california – this is my local neighborhood park, and i couldn’t be luckier. set on a hill in the neighborhood of los feliz, the park has views of griffith park to the north and the city and ocean to the west. frank lloyd wright’s hollyhock house sits atop the hill, as well as gallery space, a theater, and classroom space with weekly art classes. wine tastings and open air movie nights are huge perks, but my favorite thing to do is arrive on a saturday, spread out a blanket with a good picnic (told you), and enjoy a great book.

do you have any good parks i should check out?

themed photos during intermission of singin' in the rain in stanley park

themed photos during intermission of singin’ in the rain in stanley park

cycling around stanley park in vancouver (always wear a helmet)

cycling around stanley park in vancouver (always wear a helmet)

thoughts of ‘homa

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oklahoma-sky

the barcelona, part 2 post was scheduled for today, but has been interrupted for a trip to the heartland. i can’t shake the news from oklahoma, as i’m sure is the same for most of you. since oklahoma is a state with fewer tourists than, say, new york (it’s true!), i thought i’d share with you why people on the news keep talking about the oklahoma spirit.

oklahoma is home. it is where i was raised and where i swore i would leave as soon as i could. it is where i ended up staying for college against my wildest dreams. i just couldn’t leave. i fell in love with that campus in norman and was struck by how genuinely interested the folks at OU were in having me. always welcoming, those okies.

oklahoma is fried chicken, church services, the flaming lips, college football. it’s a slower way of life with wide open spaces and SUVs. it’s the smell of freshly cut bermuda grass and the sound of cicadas as evening approaches. oklahoma is crazy politics and 3.2% beer and some of the worst weather of any place where i’ve lived. it’s native america. And it’s OK.

according to some people i’ve met, oklahoma is a fly-over state, a red state, a beach-less state, a hot state. it’s a state for which you may not have had (or will ever have) an occasion to visit. but it’s my state, with my people.

these people know what it means to be an okie (and if you don’t, please read this beautifully written post by nicole hill). it means not focusing on living up to hollywood’s expectations, but rather on living up to your family’s expectations. it means working to live rather than living to work. it means home-cooked meals and chats over drinks and family, family, family.

i did leave oklahoma eventually, but a few things followed me. the sense of gratitude, of humility, of feeling ok asking for help, of wanting to learn more about the world and people.

in the grand scheme of things, there aren’t many people from oklahoma (though we’ve probably beat vermont). i am bound by these close ties. these are my roots. i feel ownership of this land and these people even when i am thousands of miles away.

the feeling of helplessness swallowed me these past two days as all i wanted to do was drive up 35 to help move some debris. oklahoma has a can-do spirit, and it’s a shame that the rest of the world only sees it during times of disaster. but oklahoma is a quiet state, a resilient state, and tends to keep to itself for the most part.

if you’re ever in the area, please drive through, and spend some time exploring the different parts (green country! red carpet country!). until then, please consider donating to the red cross or salvation army for relief efforts. these are my friends and my family, and they need our help.

photo by heath alan dodd

photo by heath alan dodd

my favorite: bed & breakfasts

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the inn at cooperstown

the inn at cooperstown in cooperstown, new york

i’d like to start a section titled “my favorites” and use it to explore my favorite things from around the world. this week: the b&b. i used to be a bit leery of bed and breakfasts. sometimes the floors creak, you can hear your neighbors, and you may be forced to talk to someone over morning coffee (not good for me). after having a few really wonderful experiences, though, i’ve done a 180 on the b&b and like to seek out the great ones. here are a few i’ve stayed at recently that were truly exceptional:

  • cass house inn, cayucos, california – this was our first stop on my husband’s and my first anniversary trip last summer. cayucos is a sleepy beach town on the central coast, and cass house is just across the street from the pier. a young couple own the inn, which is housed in the former victorian abode of the cass family (photographs of the family line the walls). the staff are amazing, and the personal touches are great (a glass of wine and a blanket to enjoy the chilly night in their gardens greeted us upon arrival). but if you do find yourself in cayucos, you must eat dinner at the cass house restaurant. the husband is the head chef, and the ever changing prix -fixe menu with wine pairings and ingredients from the garden out back is not to be missed.
  • la otra orilla, buenos aires, argentina – my best friend, kim, found this b&b in the heart of the palermo district of BA. close to shopping, restaurants, and a vibrant nightlife, we couldn’t have asked for more. the lush gardens and european decor provided for many great photo opportunities, and the breakfast in the morning was delicious and filing (not the case in all b&bs). we weren’t even disappointed when we were rained in one afternoon.
  • the inn at cooperstown, cooperstown, new york – my husband and i stayed here during our trip to see the baseball hall of fame. this b&b is walking distance from the hall of fame, as well as the cute downtown area (i recommend alex and ika restaurant – so good!). a long porch stretches across the front of this colonial house, and it was sitting in one of the many rocking chairs, sipping ice tea while enjoying the warm night, that i somehow met babe ruth’s granddaughter. in town to speak at the hall of fame, she and her husband were staying at the inn, and happily chatting with the other guests. delightful!

i’m interested in hearing your thoughts – do you have a favorite b&b you would recommend?

my jaunts: marfa, texas

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shortly after i started dating parker (now my husband), he mentioned wanting to travel to a small town in far west texas, marfa. i had never heared of marfa and, after looking it up on a map, realized it was pretty much in the middle of nowhere (over two hours from the nearest cities of el paso or midland/odessa). parker had read about it in texas monthly, and mentioned it was known for its modern art scene. hmmm…modern art in west texas? i was thinking more like ranchers from edna ferber’s giant (side note: the movie based on the book was filmed in marfa- it was the last movie james dean filmed before his death).

we went for three nights, and it was one of the quirkiest and coolest trips i have ever taken. we ate marfalafal at the food shark food truck (before food trucks were cool), where they gave me change in the form of a two dollar bill, a dollar piece, and a fifty cent piece (so whimsical, as my friend tara would later describe it). we strolled through the tiny downtown, with its art galleries (a warhol exhibit comes to mind), a light-filled library, and hipster bikes leaning against buildings (no locks, no crime). at night we stayed at the thunderbird hotel, a hipster haven where we rented bikes, a typewriter, and a record player.

donald judd’s chinati foundation is located in marfa, and we spent over a day touring the facilities and seeing the many exhibits spread over acres of the flat west texas land. we spoke with interns who had moved to marfa for the summer, and learned how they liked the tiny town (loved it), where they went shopping (online or in nearby alpine for the closest grocery store), and what the neighboring ranchers thought of the neon light installations (amused).

east of town, there is a strange phenomenon called the marfa lights. at a rest stop off the highway, you can park at night and look out over the flat land and see twinkling lights at the horizon. many people have speculated as to what they are, but the lights (and their origin) remain a mystery, with UFOs being the prevailing idea. somewhat spooky (ok, i was entirely freaked out), but seemingly in step with the rest of the town’s eccentric vibe. check it out.

who should go: modern art lovers, hipsters, texans
what to read: giant by edna ferber
what to watch: no country for old men and there will be blood, both partly filmed in marfa
the surrounding area: drive south to the border and head east along the rio grande through big bend national park. stop for a drink at boathouse in terlingua, a ghost town with a high hippie population and home to a texas-sized chili festival. head north from marfa for a night spent watching the stars at the university of texas’ mcdonald observatory, or swim in the natural (and freakishly clear) springs in balmorhea.